I have spent a lot of time online as well as talking with breeders and going to shows to learn as much as I can about Holland Lops and genetics.  I am posting helpful links to help others in their endeavor to learn more!

 

Litter box Training:

https://www.thespruce.com/rabbits-as-pets-1237195

 

Other rabbitries:

http://rabbitbreeders.us/Virginia-rabbit-breeders

 

So as covered in the Genotype discussion (click on Genotypes if you missed it), there are 5 basic sets of genes that establish coat color in a rabbit A-E series. (Vienna, fuzzy, and other genes will be discussed separate.) Remember that the coat color is determined by the dominate gene out of each pair and the recessive gene is shown as “_” until one can determine what recessive gene they are carrying. Example: Chestnut A_B_C_D_E_.  None of the 2^nd pair of genes in a chestnut matter because all of the 5 gene series are the dominate genes and cover up everything else.

A-Series

The first grouping is called the A-series and includes three genes that create patterning on a rabbit. Each rabbit inherits one A-series from each parent and that pairing will determine the following:

Agouti Pattern “A”

The most dominate of the A-series is the Agouti gene represented as “A”. When a rabbit carries this gene it is dominate over any other A-series gene that rabbit may have inherited. (Remember they carry genes in pairs, one from each parent). This gene causes a ticking pattern like you would see in a wild rabbit in your back yard. This pattern causes rings of color on the hair shaft, light markings around the chin, belly, underside of the tail, inside of ears and the inside of their legs.  This grouping consists of such colors as chestnut and orange.  Any Agouti colored rabbit can recessively carry and hide the otter and self-patterns which are recessive to Agouti.

Example:

A chestnut colored rabbit could carry all of these combinations in the A-series, but will look exactly the same:

AAB_C_D_E_

AatB_C_D_E_

AaB_C_D_E_

Tan Pattern “at”

The second most dominate gene in the A-series is the Tan Pattern “at” which is most recognized as the otter patterning. They are solid colored on the back and most of the head, with bellies, ears, and underside being a lighter color.  The hair shafts would not have ringed or ticket patterning. This gene is recessive to “A” Agouti and therefore any Tan pattern rabbit does not carry agouti.  It is however dominate to Self “a”.

Example:

Black Otter can be the following:

atatB_C_D_E_

ataB_C_D_E_

Self Pattern “a”

Lastly is the most recessive gene, the self-gene. This produces all the blacks, blues, torts, and many other solid colors.  A self-rabbit cannot carry the Agouti or the Tan gene.  If you breed a black rabbit to a blue rabbit you cannot get an otter or chestnut, it’s just not possible.

Tort: aaB_C_D_ee and no other possible A-series genes

Black: aaB_C_D_E_

 

NOTE: The above A-series is mostly standard, but patterning and color can be affected by both the C-series (shaded) and the E-series (extension).  This is why a tort with self “aa” is not a solid color or a Harlequin A_B_C_D_ej_ doesn’t look like a chestnut. Gotta love all these genes, right?

Here are some of my examples of the colors of Holland Lops.  I do not have pictures of all the colors, but all photos are from my own stock.

 

 

 

 

 

The following are to help you get better acquainted with colors and their genotypes. Remember that the dominate gene is what shows through and each gene has two pairs.  So “A_” just means that in order to be agouti they must carry on “A” but could be hiding a “at”(tan gene) or “a”(solid) in their genetic makeup.  So the “_” just indicates anything recessive to the shown letter could be there.

 AGOUTI

Chestnut: A_ B_ C_ D_ E_

Chocolate Agouti: A_ bb C_D_E_

Opal: A_ B_ C_ dd E_

Lynx: A_ bb C_ dd E_

Chinchilla: A_ B_ c^ch3_ D_ E_

Chocolate Chinchilla: A_ bb c^ch3_ D_ E_

Squirrel (blue chinchilla): A_ B_ c^ch3_ dd E_

WIDEBAND

Red: A_B_C_D_ee ww

Orange: A_ B_ C_ D_ ee + rufus modifires

Fawn: A_ B_ C_ D_ ee

Frosty: A_ B_ c^ch3_ D_ ee

Cream: A_ B_ C_ dd ee

BROKEN

Orange/Black Tri-Color: A_ B_ C_ D_e^je Enen

Blue/Fawn Tri: A_B_C_dd e^je Enen

Chocolate/Fawn Tri: A_ bb C_ D_ e^j e Enen

Lilac/Fawn Tri: A_ bb C_ dd e^je Enen

TICKED

Black Gold Tipped Steel: A_B_C_D_E^s_

Blue Gold Tipped Steel: A_B_C_dd E^s_

Black Silver Tipped Steel: A_B_c^ch3_D_E^s_

Blue Silver Tipped Steel: A_B_c^ch3_dd E^s_

Chocolate Gold Tipped Steel: A_bb C_D_E^s_

Lilac Gold Tipped Steel: A_bb C_dd E^s_

Chocolate Silver Tipped Steel: A_bb c^ch3_D_ E^s_

Lilac Silver Tipped Steel: A_bb c^ch3_dd E^s_

TAN PATTERN

Black Otter: a^t_ B_C_D_E_

Blue Otter: a^t_B_C_dd E_

Chocolate Otter: a^t_ bb C_D_E_

Lilac Otter: a^t_ bb C_ dd E_

SELFS

Black: aa B_ C_ D_ E_

Blue: aa B_ C_ dd E_

Chocolate: aa bb C_ D_ E_

Lilac: aa bb C_ dd E_

Red Eyed White: __ __ cc __ __

Blue Eyed White: __ __ __ __ __ vv

SHADED

Tort: aa B_ C_ D_ ee

Blue Tort: aa B_ C_ dd ee

Lilac Tort: aa bb C_ dd ee

Chocolate Tort: aa bb C_ D_ ee

Sable Point: aa B_ c^ch1_ D_ ee

Siamese Sable: aa B_ c^ch1 c D_ E_

Smoke Pearl: aa B_ c^ch1 c dd E_

Seal: aa B_ c^ch1c^ch1 D_ E_

POINTED WHITE

Black Pointed White: aa B_ c^h c D_ E_

Blue Pointed White: aa B_ c^h c dd E_

Chocolate Pointed White: aa bb c^h c D_ E_

Lilac Pointed White: aa bb c^h c dd E_

 

UNSHOWABLE AT THIS TIME (summer 2017)

Harlequins are “solid” versions of a tri (Tris are broken Harlequins)

Lilac/Fawn Harlequin: A_ bb C_ dd e^je enen

Orange/Black Harlequin: A_ B_ C_ D_ e^je enen

Chocolate/Fawn Harlequin: A_ bb C_ D_ e^je enen

Blue Harlequin (Magpie): A_B_C_ dd e^je enen

 

Iron Grey: aa B_ c^ch3_ D_ ee

Blue Point: aa B_ c^ch1_ dd ee

Chocolate Point: aa bb c^ch1_ D_ ee

Lilac Point: aa bb c^ch1_dd ee

 

Tort Otter: ataB_C_D_ee

Sable Martin: a^t_ B_ c^ch1_D_E_

Smoke Pearl Martin: a^t_ B_ c^ch1_ dd E_

Chocolate Sable Martin: a^t_ bb c^ch1_D_E_

Lilac Sable Martin: a^t_ bb c^ch1_ dd E_

Silver Martin: a^t_ B_ c^ch3_D_E_

Blue Silver Martin: a^t_ B_ c^ch3_ dd E_

Chocolate Silver Martin: a^t_ bb c^ch3_D_E_

Lilac Silver Martin: a^t_ bb c^ch3_ ddE_

 

Lilac Chinchilla: A_ bb c^ch3_ dd E_

Sable Chinchilla: A_ B_ c^ch1_ D_ E_

First and foremost, a bunny is not a cat or a dog. They are cute and fluffy and can be very loving and loyal, but they are quirky in their own ways and can’t compare to either animal.  Rabbits are best suited for school aged or older children along with adults.  That is not to say a young child can not be a great companion for a bunny, but they are naturally shy and curious and startled at loud noises and rambunctious antics from younger kids. I always advise families to take that into consideration.  Due to a Holland Lops size, they are also easily injured if children are not careful. (My son with ADHD wouldn’t have been good with a rabbit at age 5, but now at 10 is calm enough to handle them with care.)

Rabbits require cleaning of their cages every few days, daily feeding and watering, and exercise for a healthy lifestyle. Depending on the age of the caretaker, parents may need to assist with this. They are easily litter trained and many find it fun and enjoyable to let them hop around the house provided their are no pets that could injure them.

Bunnies require the following items for their basic care:

Items you will need:

• Rabbit Pellet Food
• Hay (Pet stores carry Oxbow Hay if you want smaller quantities)
• Water crock or Bottle (mine are used to a bottle). Do not use plastic bowls, they will chew on them or knock them over. Dollar store carries ceramic ones.
• Rabbit cage/house/home (min size recommended is 24×24 but bigger is better for exercise and play)
• Litter box if planning to litter train (do not use wood shavings, this can cause respiratory issues.
• Only aspen shavings, paper, fresh towels or straw is recommended for bedding

For their enjoyment:

• Toys (tunnels, boxes to hop on, hay in a toilet roll, etc.)
• Treats (Recommend “BOSS” black oil sunflower seeds or greens over commercial treats) Until 6 months old, keep treats to one or two a day max…junior rabbits are still adjusting their stomach flora and should have a limited diet.

First Day Home:

Remember that this is a big transition for them. They had to say goodbye to their siblings, their home, and everything they have known.  Your bunny may be shy, quiet, and hesitant the first few days.  Try to keep noise and disturbances down until they get accustomed to their new surroundings. Pet them and calm them with a treat or a place to hid and relax.  I recommend families with small children limit the interaction to a minimum for a day or two until the bunny feels safe. Soon they will be eating, drinking, and exploring their new digs and start interacting with their new family.

Feeding:

Holland lops eat around 1 oz of feed per pound of weight a day. I find they like it best to get some in the morning and some at night so they don’t pig out at once and get hungry later.  Since they are still growing you may find they eat more.  Try to keep in mind that hay needs to be available at all times and pellets are not to be the sole source of food. Hay keeps their teeth healthy and their gut functioning. Water must also be available at all times to help them digest. Please make sure they always have hay available as rabbits can get sick and easily go downhill if left for a day without food or water.

 

Handling:

Always pick up your bunny with two hands. One around the mid-section and one under its back end.  Rabbits are not a fan of heights if they don’t feel secure.  Never pick up by the ears or skin of the neck.

Housing:

Rabbits do decent in the cold, but easily overheated in the hot sun. If your rabbit will be kept outside he/she will need to be in a shady location, have some protection from wind, protection from rain and snow, and most importantly from predators. It’s rare, but rabbits can die from fright, so a safe place is important. If they are inside, you will want a cage with a litter tray or litter box.  If a solid bottom cage, I recommend litter training to keep their fur and feet clean so they are not constantly sitting in their waste.  Clean litter box as needed. (I find 1-2 times a week for one rabbit is reasonable.)

Grooming:

Rabbits require toenails to be clipped and an occasional brushing. I find it easiest to wrap them in a towel with a paw out and carefully clip the toenails this way.  Just like any animal with nails, take care not to cut to the quick.  I use a rabbit/slicker style brush to help groom them for show or just to clean up.  They molt 2 times a year and during this time this will help them ingest less hair into their system.

 

.I get a lot of questions about if XYZ is normal or if a bunny should be eating certain things, so here is a small compilation of questions and answers:

Q. My bunny isn’t eating their hay.  Why?

A.  Depends on a few factors.  I always ask what else they are being fed if they are not eating their hay.  Think of hay as a salad.  Some people love salad, some people don’t.  If your hungry, you’ll eat your salad, but if mom gives you pizza, and ice cream then that salad may just sit there.  Hay should always be free fed, but pellets and treats need to be kept in check or most rabbits will fill up on pellets and treats.

Q. My bunny is pooping mushy clusters of poo.  Is this normal?

A.  Yes!  These soft clusters of poo are called caecotrophe poop aka “cecals”. This poop is made of food that was fermented and then is expelled and is grossly enough, full of nutrients. (Yuck!) So yes, you may also see your cute bundle of fluff eat these soft pellets and is actually healthy for them.  If your rabbit is producing a lot of this then check their diet to make sure your are not feeding them too many treats and they are eating their hay.

Q. My rabbit is peeing orange/red or cloudy pee!  What is wrong with them?

A.  Many times, nothing is wrong.  Rabbits pee tends to be high in calcium and produces cloudy pee that is a pain to clean off of flooring and cages. One thing to watch for is an extremely sludge thick pee which can indicate a buildup of calcium in their bladder and should be addressed. As for the color changes, what have they been eating?  Diets high in plant pigments (carrots, kale, spinach) can cause discoloration and red pee.  If you see spots of blood or dark reddish brown clots then there is an issue and should be addressed with the vet.

Q.  My bunny nips me.  Why?

A.  Rabbits can be like children sometimes and try to seek attention any way they can.  What were you doing when they nipped at you?  If you were holding them or reaching for them it is a way for them to say “not now” or “leave me alone”.  Just like a dog, rabbits can growl and nip to show displeasure. I find it best to issue a stern tap to the nose and then if needed to pin them to the ground so they know they are not in charge.  Then leave them alone until they are in a better mood.  Do not let aggressive behavior continue or your rabbit will learn it is acceptable.

If you were just chilling on the floor and they come up and nip you and look at you, its a way for them to say “pet me, love me, play with me”.  For some this is endearing, but it should be “nipped in the butt” so they don’t develop a bad habit of getting attention through biting.  When they nip you next time, try shrieking at them.  Yes, your family will probably look at you like you’ve lost it, but the startling noise should teach your bunny that it is not a pleasant experience.